Today at Kanehama I was lovin’ it… I think I’m finally getting a feel for getting into a wave, so from now I have to figure out what to do once I’m there (maybe turning?). It was an amazing day, and there were only three of us in the water. I love surfers. They spend hours together, and don’t feel any pressure to fill it with chitchat. As long as they are sitting in the water they could just as easily be doing zazen meditation in a temple. But anyhow, there are many places in the world that would be just crawling with surfers clamouring for a wave on such a perfect day. That thought makes me a little sad to be leaving fair Tohoku.
I have a new muse now for surfing, too. My heart was full of her today, and it was the best day of surfing in my short surfing career. Like Quixote’s Dulcinea, I will dedicate every wave to her honor, for the rest of my life.